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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.